August 7, 2005
This article describes the setup of the wireless access network on my Motosat Datastorm satellite Internet system.
My VAR is Ground Control. I have a Ground Control Network Access Point (GCNAP) which provides the Internet connection using the Datastorm satellite system.
I have tried a NetGear WGR614 Wireless Access Point/Router, then a Hawking HWR54G Wireless Access Point/Router, and now I am using the Belkin Pre-N Access Point/Router. ($135 with shipping from Tiger Direct)
I keep upgrading, trying to get better coverage. The NetGear didn’t allow external antennas. The Hawking allowed external antennas but coverage didn’t improve significantly. The Belkin Pre-N promised 400% better coverage. After installation, I had two bars where I previously had an intermittent one bar.
The Belkin is twice the cost but the range is so much better. You could get better range with other WAP/routers with better antennas, but the cost would probably be more than the Belkin, which doesn’t need the external antenna. The other systems get most of the aditional range by using directional antennas. The Belkin is omnidirectional. Therefore, you don’t have to aim the antenna in the direction you intend to be.
Setup of the Belkin router was the easiest I have experienced. I did have to run setup a second time because I didn’t have the network adapter enabled and I had to disable the proxy I normally use so that the router was seen by the computer. Other than that it was mostly a job of clicking “next” several times. I did, of course, enter my own Sysid and after it connected to the INTERNET, I setup security.
Unlike previous routers, the Belkin connected itself to the Ground Control NAP automatically. I didn’t have to fudge anything. I then turned on my proxy again with an exception for the new router IP.
Previously, I didn’t use the WAN port but used a LAN port to connect from the router to the NAP with a crossover cable. With the Belkin, I used a straight cable to connect from the router WAN port to the GCNAP. This allows the use of all the power and protection of the router and it’s firewall. Suffice it to say it just works and was setup extremely smoothly.
History:
Previously I was using the Hawking HWR54G WAP. This article used to contain the information below. I’ve left the information to aid anyone who might need it to setup their Hawking WAP. I got the Hawking WAP because I was looking to increase my range. The Hawking was cheap and had antenna connectors that allowed use of external high gain antennas. I didn’t see a significant increase in range with the high gain antennas. I returned the equipment.
LAN Settings:
The DHCP was turned on even though the NAP had a DHCP running as well. This didn’t seem to present a problem but if it did, I could have turned off the DHCP in the NAP. The DHCP is needed in the WAP to set the correct gateway and DNS for wireless and wired users. The source for these was set in the WAN configuration (below). The NAP IP was set as the WAN IP, and gateway. The DNS was a valid Ground Control DNS.
WAN Port Configuration from Advanced Options:
The Hawking HWR54G was very versatile but most of the settings were unchanged from default, except as noted above and for normal personalization.
Originally I used a NetGear WGR614 Wireless Access Point/Router but it wouldn’t allow the use of an external antenna so I replaced it.
Using a router with the Motosat system takes some consideration. Normally a simple Wireless Access Point is used rather than a router.
The original NetGear WAP worked well but had limited range. It worked inside and immediately adjacent to the RV but I couldn’t connect from inside my house.
It would seem that the Hawking, with a 6 dB antenna, should have quadrupled the range. In actuality, it was maybe half a bar, at best, from the original antenna. The Belkin setup was even easier including automatic setup of the WAN port to the GCNAP (Satellite host), something none of the other WAPs I’ve tried would do. In fact, some wouldn’t allow use of the WAN port with the GCNAP because they incorrectly set the addresses and couldn’t be changed.
With just the installation of the Belkin WAP, and not using Belkin pre-N laptop WiFi cards, the range improvement now is from 0-1 bars to 2-4 bars inside my house. Someday I’ll get a pre-N card for the laptop and I expect another doubling of the range.
This article is still under construction. I’ll try to get some current images of the Belkin as installed some time soon.
Why Do I Need Internet Access
Well, If you don’t miss it, maybe you don’t. In you’re an Internet or email junkie, then you’ll miss it when you’re on the road or in the wilds. The Internet can be invaluable for making travel plans and keeping in touch while on the road.
Types of Internet Access
There are four common methods of connection to the internet while on the road. Dialup, Cellular, Wifi, and Satellite.
Dialup uses a wired connection, usually not in your campsite, to connect at up to about 33k bits/second (kbs). This is OK for email but not too good for browsing the internet. Cost is about $10/month and up.
Cellular uses the digital cellular network to provide connection at between 10kbs up to 128kbs. Generally it wouldn’t be much faster than dialup and on most plans you pay by the minute. This may be OK if you have unlimited Nights and weekends.
Wifi is becoming available at many RV parks, Restaurants, coffee houses, truck stops, etc. It allows for a high speed wireless connection to the Internet. This can provide a good connection but there are many different providers. This may require having many service plans or changing plans when you move. Often there are hourly use fees.
Satellite can provide a high-speed connection anywhere the Southern sky is visible. There are three common services for satellite Internet access. Some only provide the high-speed downlink and require some other connection for the uplink like your cell phone. The Datastorm system provides a two-way link so access is available almost anywhere, such as your favorite forest service campsite near East Timbuktu. There are two types fixed and mobile. The fixed systems can be relocated by a qualified person but actually aren’t too convenient unless you’ll be staying someplace for an extended period. A mobile system from Motosat automatically acquires the satellite. The Motosat system costs about $7000 installed and the monthly service is $99. This is a little, possibly a lot, steep, but it’s currently the only high speed connection that is available anywhere. This is what we have on our RV.
Our System
I chose the One Touch system from Ground Control (http://www.groundcontrol.com). This system packages the control box, the two modems, and the Network Access Point Computer (NAP) in one box with a control panel making the system a simple appliance that provides the internet connection. I connected the RJ45 LAN connector on the back to a Belkin Pre-N Access Point. More information about the WAP setup. This provides a high speed wireless connection so we can use our laptop anywhere near our RV.
There are four buttons and thirteen indicators on the front panel of the One Touch NAP. That may sound complex but it’s not really. Actually, there is another switch. The system needs to be plugged in to a power strip. There are two power cords coming from the NAP. One powers the Modems and the controller, the other the Control PC. The front panel power switch only controls the Control PC so to control power to the rest of the devices you need to have a switch on the plug strip.
When you arrive at your destination (The Motosat system only works when stationary), apply power to the system by turning on the plug strip then pushing the power button on the face-panel. After a minute or so the system tested and antenna stowed lights will be on steady. Simply press the “Find Satellite” button. The antenna will align itself with the satellite and do some testing and then it will be ready for use with the “ON Signal, “Tested”, and “Tx Enabled” indicators on.
When you’re going to move, simply press the “Stow Dish” button and the dish will be returned to the stowed position. You can then turn off the system. The other switch is the stop switch in case you need to stop the dish for some reason.
The other indicators show status information not needed for normal usage.
When not needed for use, you can power down the system leaving the antenna up and when needed again, simply turn on the power and the connection will be available in a couple of minutes. The power sequence may be important. I always power off the NAP PC and then the rest of the system. Power up the system first and then the NAP PC.
The Motosat system provides a reliable Internet connection with downlink speeds of 200K to 4M on occasion. The uplink is much slower averaging 10-25k. This is fine for browsing the internet but uploads can still take a while. Most internet traffic is down so it is OK.
This is a sophisticated system and there are occasions when all does not go right, so, someone onboard or reasonable available should be able to check indications and readings and take other actions on the NAP to restore operation. Ground Control has 24/7 online and phone support in the event of a problem.
The installation of the system does take come cabinet space and requires a roof penetration.
(Note: The picture above shows our old Netgear WAP. We now use a Belkin Pre-N Access Point)
Our installation is in a cabinet above the dinette. In order to properly ventilate the cabinet, I installed a muffin fan in the side of the cabinet (another penetration) and installed a door stop such that the door remains open a ½” when closed. I didn’t want to destroy the door by putting in a grill. In addition, I replaced the existing dash mounted TV with a Samsung TV/Monitor. I used VGA and USB extension cables to the dash to allow use of the monitor and a keyboard and mouse on the NAP computer. This allows for internet access without the use of another computer and allows for easier trouble shooting in the event of a system problem.
The system is a bit power hungry. With the system and my laptop (power hungry itself) it consumes about 10 amps DC for the inverter. A 400 watt Xantrex inverter provides continuous power to the Motosat system, Wifi and network devices, Vonage phone adaptor, the Internet camera and the laptop. The inverter is on all the time and works like a big UPS system with 300 ampere hours of battery available so it could run for more than 30 hours.
If you have questions about our use of the Motosat system please email us at donwood@desine.com
Links:
http://www.datastorm.com/
http://www.groundcontrol.com/
http://direcway.com/
http://www.datastormusers.com/
Power consumption:
Toshiba P25S609 Laptop = 45 watts typical. (.4a ac)
NAP Modems = 22 watts (.2a ac)
NAP PC = plugged in 33 watts, turned on 78 watts (.3a ac / .7a ac)
Belkin Access Point = 22 watts (.2a ac)(estimated)
Vonage PAP2 = less than 10 watts (
The electrical system is vital for powering the comforts of the mobile living space. It consists of the 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC system. The 12 volt system consists of a battery pack, and chargers. The AC system consists of a 30 amp cable to the shore power connection and inverters to generate AC power from the 12 volt batteries, and also a 5Kw generator. The batteries are charged either by the inverter or the solar panels.
Batteries:
Six AGM deep cycle batteries to replace to 2 wet cell trojan batteries. This should allow for up to two days of our heavy use without the need to run the generator. AGM Batteries are no maintenance low internal resistance batteries that are great for high current use and fast recharge, good for use with the inverter.
The 6 six volt AGM batteries are on the right.
Inverters:
A 2000 watt inverter, which includes a 100 amp charger, replaced the original converter charger and provides AC power to all outlets but not to the refrigerator nor the air conditioner.
There is also a small 7oo watt inverter in front of the large inverter which is always on and supplies power to the Motosat system, computers and the bedroom TV like a UPS.
The large inverter can be controlled by the remote panel inside the RV.
Autoformer:
The Hughes Autoformer was added to compensate for low voltage connections in campgrounds and at home. We haven’t had any damage due to low voltage or surges but have had circuit breakers trip due to the increased current under low voltage conditions. We got the Autoformer online from PPL’s RV Parts Superstore. Due to a fixed 30′ service cord on our RV, the autofromer was usually chained to the service pedestal or RV when we connected. Later, the autoformer was installed inside a compartment after shortening the service cable to 2′. There were concerns about overheating in the small compartment but a Hughes representative was asked about it and we were convinced it would be OK as long as space was maintained around it. It seems to handle the problem by providing a voltage boost when needed. We should have gotten it right away rather than waiting a year and a half.
Solar System:
I installed two 120 watt and two 80 watt Kyocera solar panels which provides a total of 400 watts of power. I used Unirac 990002 Tilt mounts that allow tilting the panel either to the left or right of the vehicle for maximum power output.
The SolarBoost 2000E MPPT charge controller provides up to 25 amps of charge current.
The cable from the roof to the electrical compartment came down beside the bathroom vent to minimize the wire length. I used #8 wire throughout except for #10 jumpers at the controller end to fit the terminal block on the charge controller.
Everything was obtained from Azsolar in Cambria, Ca. I went to Quartzsite, Az looking for the best price on a system but I found the best prices I could find there to be 25% higher than that offered at Azsolar.
The system should allow normal electrical use while dry camping (boondocking). The Motosat satellite system used for the Internet connection is a bit of an energy hog using about 10 amps for everything.
Battery Monitor Meter
A Link 10 Choice battery monitor was installed (the round meter above) that is capable of moitoring the in and out to and from the battery and can keep a history as well as display a charge available amount. It is also capable of causing the generator to start as well. I can also hook it up to the computer to track usage.
The meter was installed in the pantry area where the other electrical controls and the existing inverter control panel are. It doesn’t look big, but it does a lot.
The shunt (left picture above) was installed in the battery ground cable. It is used to measure the current.
The only adjustment that was needed was to set the battery capacity to match my system. There are many other adjustments that can be made but the default was good for my system.
I’ve been looking for a good, small printer to install in the dash where the TV was. I found the Brother MFC-420cn, a multifunction scanner, fax, copier, and printer. It’s a color inkjet printer and it includes a document feeder for the scanner. It also has USB and Ethernet ports. I connected the Ethernet port to the RV’s network hub so it can be shared. All this for $149. Wow!
The LCD monitor leaves lots of room behind where the tube TV used to be stuffed. I wanted to build the printer into the dash behind the TV/Monitor, but I haven’t had enough ambition yet. I did build a box to hold it temporarily and I’m thinking it may be a better idea. I’ll try it for a while. I can always use the dash area for more storage.
The box provides protection for the printer and some storage area for all the other stuff you may need like sun glasses, camera, note pads and maps.
The top lifts off when you want to make a copy. The top is a good place for the laptop when using the drivers seat.
Telephone commications on the road is as important or even more important than at a brick house. Keeping in touch with friends and business associates while on the road can be a challenge. We each have a verizon cell phone, which works well for the three of us most of the time. A problem arises when the RV enters into the cell phone twilight zone. In order to keep in contact, where the cell phone signal won’t go, I added a Linksys PAP2Voice Over Internet Protocol (VOIP) phone adapter to the RV network. I got it at Circuit City. The Vonage telephone service is what is used. We can use the DataStorm Satellite Internet System for the connection. It’s OK most of the time in the RV and works perfectly on the house DSL connection. It’s only OK in the RV because the uplink ocassionally breaks up a little due to the uplink bandwidth being only 30-38Kbps while the downlink works well due to it being 250-500k. The devices lowest bandwidth requires 30k. There is a considerable delay of 1-2 seconds due to the satellite propagation delays. The delay takes a little getting used to. The delay is sort of like the delay you see on the nightly news where the reporter at their remote or network seems to be asleep when asked a question taking a couple of seconds to start their response. The sound quality is as good or better than our Verizon cell phone. In the RV, it works really well at night but during the day, sometimes, you don’t get a good connection. Just hangup and try again and it usually is OK. In the house on DSL there is no difference from the SBC copper line.
What’s really neat about this, in addition to the price ($15/mo for 500 minutes, or $25 for unlimited, anywhere in US and Canada) is that you can have any phone area code you want and you can take it with you. Just unplug it from the RV, take it in the house, take it into the office, the library, anywhere there is an Broadband connection. You could even do it at any WiFi spot if you add a wireless bridge device like the (about $80). Hawking Wireless AP/Bridge or similar bridge.
The VOIP performed so well that I got another for our daughter Dawn’s apartment. I’m a little upset with SBC’s costs recently and while we have to keep the phone to have the DSL at both Dawn’s apartment and our house, we can keep the long distance and zone charges down by using Vonage. Another great thing, the hardware is free and it only requires a three month committment. They must be confident it works. The PAP2 Lynksys adapter cost $60 at Circuit City and they give two rebates totaling $60. You can get a $50 rebate anywhere else or get the hardware directly from Vonage for free. It takes all of 5 minutes to have your new phone number working, including setup of the hardware and the account. I’m impressed!
The Vonage PAP2 adapter is the small box under the router in the middle of the picture. It has three cables, one to the Ethernet, one to the phone and the third for the wall wart power supply. Quite easy to move around.
We hooked up a wireless phone to the vonage adapter in the RV and can use the the phone anywhere around our campsite, wherever that may be.
Update:
I’m currently trying out the NetZero VOIP system in the RV. Vonage is good at home on the DSL line but not always good in the RV using the DirecWay satellite system. The bandwidth of the uplink is too limited in the RV. NetZero has a satellite option and also claims to work on dialup phone service. So I’m trying it out.
So far, it has worked great. Very clear voice quality now. If this continues, I’ll add a USB phone adapter and load the software into the Network Access Point so I won’t need a laptop as I do now while testing.
More information to follow.
Why Would I Want A Blog
A blog allows your family and friends and other perfect strangers to follow your experiences with ease.
But I’m Not A Geek
You don’t really need to be technically inclined to start your own website. This website uses a “blog” to make it easier to maintain. A blog allows you to post articles to your website and the blog software takes care of the basic format and maintains the links that relate all the pages on your website. When a site becomes larger, this automatic link management really comes in handy. This site uses a blog managed by blogger.com and hosted on our own website. The simplest way to start your own blog is to utilize the hosting provided by blogger.com. You can always move to another web host at any time in the future.
A Simpler Way To Find Your Blog
You may desire to register your own “domain name”. A domain name is a shortcut to your website. It is useful to provide a simple link to your site that will be consistent in the future and allow you to change where the website is hosted (the company providing the computer your site resides on) in the future without changing how people go to your site. Your blog may reside at http://www.mycurrenthost.com/users/myname/index.html but if you registered a domain name it could be simplified as http://www.mysimplelink.com. If you change your web host later, you’ll still be accessible as http://www.mysimplelink.com even though its now hosted at http://www.myfuturehost.com/users/myname/index.html. Domain names can be registered for less than $10 per year so they are not cost prohibitive. Hosting of your website can cost as little as $5 per month.
This site is hosted at RegisterFly.com, the domain name is registered at Registerfly.com as well and the blog software is at blogger.com
Note: Changes have been made and Blogger is no longer used for this site. WordPress is now used because it is much more versatile, and faster. Blogger is a good choice for a simple blog but I wanted more. In addition, the site is hosted at WestHost using a Virtual Private Server (VPS). I now host all of my domains using the same VPS server. They also provide single domain hosting for as little as $4/month. I’ll make a better update as soon as I can.
Links
http://www.blogger.com Has the blogger software and can host the blog as well.
http://registerfly.com Can host your blog as well as register a domain name.
http://www.ipowwrweb.com Can host your blog as well as register a domain name.
http://www.1and1.com Can host your blog as well as register a domain name.
